The Little Palace Recommendations
This is an idea of the tools and materials recommended for the work we do at The Little Palace. They’re the things we use, rely on, and have found worth keeping on hand when you’re bringing old furniture back to life. Don’t use this as a shopping list. We will provide tools during the classes you attend.
Upholstery Tools & Their Use
Awl or Staple Remover — Either can be used to lift staples.
Staple Gun — Used to attach materials to the frame.
Hot Glue Gun — Used to attach trim on some projects.
Webbing Stretcher — Pulls webbing taut while stapling it to the frame.
Magnetic Tacking Hammer — One side is magnetic to hold upholstery tacks while the other side is a simple hammer.
Nylon Hammer — Similar to the magnetic hammer but used for decorative nails.
Pincers — Used to remove staples or tacks after they have been lifted.
Dressmaker's Measuring Tape — Handy for measuring upholstered pieces that aren't flat.
Heavy-Duty Scissors — Used only for cutting upholstery fabric so they stay sharp.
Metal Tape Measure — Used to measure project dimensions.
Chalk — Used to mark cutting lines.
Dressmaker Pins — Used to secure patterns or fabric.
Decorative Nails — Used as embellishments on certain projects.
Upholstery Tacks — Used instead of staples on certain projects to attach fabric, webbing, or springs to a frame.
Adhesive — Secures foam, helps create rolled edges, and attaches burlap and Dacron to pieces.
Refinishing & Refinishing Materials
Gel Stripper — Many brands make strippers. Unlike liquid stripper, gel stays put and doesn't run off.
Plastic Scraper — Avoid metal tools. They are too sharp and can scratch the furniture. Some people use old credit cards for hard-to-reach spaces.
Plastic Container — Use this to catch the gunk. Plastic takeout containers will do the trick.
Turpentine — The best solvent for dewaxing if you are trying to retain the original patina and simply apply a new topcoat.
Synthetic-Bristle Brush — Used with turpentine.
Terry Cloth or Cotton Rags — These come in handy throughout the project.
Wood Filler — You can buy this at any store until you learn how to make it yourself.
Sandpaper — You will need multiple grits to get through a project.
Water-Based Stain — The easiest stain to use. It's forgiving and compatible with almost all finishes.
Tack Cloth — Lint-free cheesecloth treated with a tacky residue to remove dust after sanding.
Shellac — Great for sealing wood, especially before applying a darker finish.
Glaze — Use a light hand. It enhances or ages the color while catching the light.
Polyurethane — Not a favorite at The Little Palace. It forms a hard, protective layer of synthetic plastic.
Varnish — A traditional finish that cures into a tough, transparent protective layer.
Paste Wax — A soft decorative coat that gives a low-sheen look and offers little resistance to moisture or heat.
Grit Guide
50–100 — Do not use on fine furniture.
120, 150 — Reserved for rustic and exceptionally damaged pieces.
180 — Start here for fine furniture.
220 — Stop here if you plan to stain the wood. Finer grits can impair even stain penetration.
320, 360, 400 — Stop here if you aren't staining the piece.
500, 600 — Use for scuff sanding between coats.